Here is a listing of all the photos I have posted so far. Enjoy!
Africa
Europe
Mongolia
Korea
China
Signage
Laos
Vietnam and Cambodia
Thailand
Malaysia and Singapore
Australia
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Hey Mate, How Ya Goin'?
I arrived in Australia and felt like I was in... America. Sure they talk a little funny and drive on the other side of the road but other than that I was in a parallel universe. They speak English, listen to the same music, watch the same television shows, drive pick-up trucks (or utes) dress in a similar fashion (with a little more emphasis on the shorts with long socks combo) and even call soccer, "soccer". But I decided the best thing about landing in Australia on that March day was realizing that the nearest squat toilet was hundreds of kilometers away!
Australia is about the same size as the U.S. minus Alaska but instead of lots of corn in the middle they've got a lot of dessert. As a result most people live close to the coastline and surf a lot. And not only is their country of a similar size but Australia's history is remarkably similar to that of the U.S. When America got its independence, Britian had to find a new place to send convicts. They started sending them to Australia and eventually people started to want to go there on their own. They've got a similar abysmal track record with the native population. Australia's even got its own gold rush and wave of European immigration after WWII. What they don't have is a war of independence. Apparently Australia still can be bossed around by the Queen of England. Her face is even on the money.
Australia is pretty isolated because it sits out in its own little corner of the world and doesn't seem to make a lot of fuss. It doesn't get a lot of international media attention (well, maybe that's because they don't have any nukes) but they certainly seem to pay attention to American politics. By watching the nightly news I can stay up to date on the latest U.S. political scandals. Not that I particularly care anyway but I could if I wanted to.
I started my journey through Australia by visiting Perth. Perth's claim to fame is that it is the most isolated city of its size in the world. How enticing! Anyway, it was nice to readjust to western culture after all the months I spent wandering around Asia. Perth is also one of Australia's newest cities so on the walking tour it wasn't surprising to find that one of the highlights was "check out the really cool tree in front of the hospital." Apparently I had found a country with even less history than my own.
Melbourne was up next and brags about being voted one of the world's most liveable cities. I have to admit it is a really cool city. It has a really nice artistic and fun vibe. And lots of guys walking around wearing really skinny jeans.
I moved on north to Sydney where I got to see the famous Sydney Opera House. It looked a lot smaller than in my imagination but impressive nonetheless. In Sydney I also got to go to my first Australian zoo. I loved seeing the kangaroos, wallabees, wombats, emus and koalas. One of the fascinating things I noticed (or couldn't miss based on their loud squaking) was all the birds that look as if they've escaped from the zoo but are in fact native to the area. Cockatoos and parrots noisily fly around the city all day.
Brisbane was next then the beach towns of Byron Bay and Noosa Heads and finally the world's largest sand island: Fraser Island. I went on a camping trip that allows backpackers to cram themselves into a 4x4 and drive all over the island, even on the beach. The island was absolutely beautiful but we literally had to fight off the dingoes at our campsite at night.
Further north I stopped in the town of 1770 where I went snorkeling at the Great Barrier Reef. The fish were just as beautiful and amazing as my previous snorkeling experiences but this time I got to swim for a few minutes with a gigantic manta ray. It was similar to the experience of swimming with whale sharks in Mozambique.
I headed back to Sydney next and attempted to use my Working Holiday Visa. The thing is just about every backpacker in Australia is trying to do the same thing. I had a brief stint as a cable salesman before deciding that it was time to move on.
I really like the Aussies (pronounced "Ozzies" just so you know) with their friendly "no worries" attitude. I'm going to miss being in a place where I can say "keen," "heaps"and "reckon" in the same sentence and still be regarded as completely normal. And I'll definitely miss being called Love, Darling, and Doll. Now, if you'll excuse me I think I'll make a visit to the bottle shop one last time for a little bit of goon before I head on over to Argentina.
Australia is about the same size as the U.S. minus Alaska but instead of lots of corn in the middle they've got a lot of dessert. As a result most people live close to the coastline and surf a lot. And not only is their country of a similar size but Australia's history is remarkably similar to that of the U.S. When America got its independence, Britian had to find a new place to send convicts. They started sending them to Australia and eventually people started to want to go there on their own. They've got a similar abysmal track record with the native population. Australia's even got its own gold rush and wave of European immigration after WWII. What they don't have is a war of independence. Apparently Australia still can be bossed around by the Queen of England. Her face is even on the money.
Australia is pretty isolated because it sits out in its own little corner of the world and doesn't seem to make a lot of fuss. It doesn't get a lot of international media attention (well, maybe that's because they don't have any nukes) but they certainly seem to pay attention to American politics. By watching the nightly news I can stay up to date on the latest U.S. political scandals. Not that I particularly care anyway but I could if I wanted to.
I started my journey through Australia by visiting Perth. Perth's claim to fame is that it is the most isolated city of its size in the world. How enticing! Anyway, it was nice to readjust to western culture after all the months I spent wandering around Asia. Perth is also one of Australia's newest cities so on the walking tour it wasn't surprising to find that one of the highlights was "check out the really cool tree in front of the hospital." Apparently I had found a country with even less history than my own.
Melbourne was up next and brags about being voted one of the world's most liveable cities. I have to admit it is a really cool city. It has a really nice artistic and fun vibe. And lots of guys walking around wearing really skinny jeans.
I moved on north to Sydney where I got to see the famous Sydney Opera House. It looked a lot smaller than in my imagination but impressive nonetheless. In Sydney I also got to go to my first Australian zoo. I loved seeing the kangaroos, wallabees, wombats, emus and koalas. One of the fascinating things I noticed (or couldn't miss based on their loud squaking) was all the birds that look as if they've escaped from the zoo but are in fact native to the area. Cockatoos and parrots noisily fly around the city all day.
Brisbane was next then the beach towns of Byron Bay and Noosa Heads and finally the world's largest sand island: Fraser Island. I went on a camping trip that allows backpackers to cram themselves into a 4x4 and drive all over the island, even on the beach. The island was absolutely beautiful but we literally had to fight off the dingoes at our campsite at night.
Further north I stopped in the town of 1770 where I went snorkeling at the Great Barrier Reef. The fish were just as beautiful and amazing as my previous snorkeling experiences but this time I got to swim for a few minutes with a gigantic manta ray. It was similar to the experience of swimming with whale sharks in Mozambique.
I headed back to Sydney next and attempted to use my Working Holiday Visa. The thing is just about every backpacker in Australia is trying to do the same thing. I had a brief stint as a cable salesman before deciding that it was time to move on.
I really like the Aussies (pronounced "Ozzies" just so you know) with their friendly "no worries" attitude. I'm going to miss being in a place where I can say "keen," "heaps"and "reckon" in the same sentence and still be regarded as completely normal. And I'll definitely miss being called Love, Darling, and Doll. Now, if you'll excuse me I think I'll make a visit to the bottle shop one last time for a little bit of goon before I head on over to Argentina.
Same Same but Different
I found out where all the Swedes go in winter in case you were wondering. They all flock to Thailand and I don't blame them. In my opinion sand and sun is much better than snow and darkness. But anyway, I found myself in Thailand at the end of January to meet up with some friends. We were in Phuket and filled our days with beaches and our nights in tacky bars with go-go dancers. Eventually we did break up the pattern by visiting Koh Phi Phi Island for a snorkeling trip. It was my first experience snorkeling in tropical waters and it was amazing. I saw just about every type of fish featured in Finding Nemo. The water was incredibly clear and on the white, sandy beaches the shells can sometimes surprise you by suddenly moving because there's a hermit crab inside them.
I can see why so many tourists visit Thailand and it's not just the scenery. The food is incredible as well. When I got to Thailand I was excited to try my favorite dishes that I had at the Thai restaurants back home. But the most confusing part about eating food in Thailand (and this goes for Laos as well) is that you're supposed to eat your meal using a fork and a spoon. And the crazy thing is that the Thais don't ever put the fork in their mouth, they just use it to pile stuff onto the spoon. So whoever introduced the fork to this region of the world didn't really do a very good job. Anyway, it tastes delicious no mater how you eat it.
Eventually it was time to head to Bangkok. I fought through the smog to visit some of the palaces and temples, got my teeth cleaned (no cavities!) and a genuine Thai massage (more of a test of my flexibility) but the highlight would have to be one of the day trips that I took. The day started early and while waiting for the tour to get organized I heard some cheering from a nearby bar. I would assume that the bar was full of Americans because they were cheering about a touchdown that the Steelers had just scored in the Superbowl. It was strange to see them drinking coffee instead of beer while watching the game but then again it was eight in the morning. Kind of made me miss home for a minute but then I realized where I was going that day and got over it.
Once everyone got sorted and we were on our way we had to stop at a few boring (OK, OK, important) memorials before we got to the elephant ride. It brought back memories of riding elephants at the circus but somehow the elephants seemed a lot smaller than in my memories. Next was a waterfall with plenty of interesting tropical birds flying around. And then finally we made it to the Tiger Temple. The Tiger Temple is run by monks who first adopted an orphaned tiger and now have lots of tigers that tourists are allowed to pet and pose for pictures with. It was a little disappointing that there was such a huge number of tourists and you were moved around so quickly. Instead of actually getting to experience being up close with a tiger it felt a lot more like a photo opportunity. At least in Africa there was a sense of danger when I was in the lion cage since the guards had some very large guns strapped to their backs and there was nobody waiting in line.
One more stop at another Thai beach on the way south to witness some fire twirling, fire jump rope and participate in fire limbo (did I mention that they're not big on lawsuits in this part of the world). Finally, after deciding that the Thais were just not very generous with visas these days it was time to go to my next destination: Malaysia.
I continued south where the weather got hotter and the culture got conservative. Malaysia is predominately Muslim but thanks to lots of Chinese immigrants there are still plenty of places to buy a beer.
I started out in Penang and loved the combination of Maylay, Chinese, Indian and British cultures living together. I especially enjoyed eating all the different types of food they brought with them. It was also fun to wander around (while tying not to get too sweaty) looking at the great colonial architecture.
Next I was on my way to a place where I could cool off and strawberries are grown year-round! The Cameron Highlands is where all sorts of fruits and vegetables are grown and tourists come to look at them. There are also some really incredible hiking trails. My favorite one went through the "Mossy Forest". I visited my very first apiary (where bees are raised), a tea plantation and a couple butterfly farms but my favorite place was definitely the strawberry farm. I made friends with a wonderful guy from Bangladesh who was running the place. He insisted on feeding me all the free strawberries and whipped cream I could eat. I think he liked me.
Onward to my next stop called Pulau Perhentian Kecil, or in other words, paradise. The island had just opened up after the monsoon season so things hadn't gotten crowded yet. The sand was white the water was clear and the nightly fish barbecues were delicious. It's one of those places where you literally lose track of time. The snorkeling trip was even better than in Thailand. This time I not only go to see Nemo fish but sea turtles, sharks and sting rays. The sea turtles also came on the beach at night to lay their eggs.
I tagged along with some of the people I met on the beach to one of the most Muslim cities in Malaysia: Kota Bharu. The museums were pretty interesting but one night we were wandering around and found what looked to be a night market taking place. Upon further investigation we saw the usual animal parts, clothes and food for sale. After sitting down on the nearby lawn to drink the super sweet colorful drinks we had bought we realized that we might be a little out of place. People were gathering around and a curious woman came over to talk to us. Turns out we were at a very conservative Muslim right-wing political rally. Hmm...there goes any chance of getting security clearance anytime in the near future. We stayed for a few minutes not understanding what the guy at the microphone was saying but observing everything around us. Eventually we felt uncomfortable enough to head out of there.
Taman Negara was where I decided to go next. Time for some more jungle trekking! This was real rainforest. I did a two-day hike through the rainforest where I donated some blood to the local leech population. I was hoping to see some elephants or tigers but instead saw deer, squirrels, woodpeckers and spiders. Pretty much the same stuff I see in my backyard at home. Oh well, I guess it is a little different when they're rainforest squirrels. Ok it wasn't all disappointing. I really enjoyed the challenge of a long hike and felt stronger and happier having accomplished it. The other highlights of Taman Negara were getting to go up on the canopy walkways and seeing the frightening and smelly bat caves.
I was a little bit apprehensive when I arrived in Singapore. I was afraid of doing something like breaking a law I didn't know about. And it was a bit of a culture shock being in a big city after so much time in the forest. The westerners who live there will tell you Singapore is like living in the movie "The Truman Show". They say it feels like a movie set because something that's broken will be fixed by the time you see it the next day. I witnessed this myself. I saw some graffiti on a wall that I hadn't noticed the day before but it was gone the next day when I walked past again. It makes you second-guess yourself whether it was there at all. The city is incredibly efficient and clean just like I had heard it would be. The other thing about Singapore is that they supposedly speak English. However, I can't understand them and they have a hard time understanding me. They speak their own version of English called Singlish and have a strange habit of adding "la" onto the end of their sentences.
By this time I had been in Asia for almost seven months. I had gotten pretty good at eating and drinking my dinner out of a plastic bag but it was time to embark on my next adventure: Australia.
I can see why so many tourists visit Thailand and it's not just the scenery. The food is incredible as well. When I got to Thailand I was excited to try my favorite dishes that I had at the Thai restaurants back home. But the most confusing part about eating food in Thailand (and this goes for Laos as well) is that you're supposed to eat your meal using a fork and a spoon. And the crazy thing is that the Thais don't ever put the fork in their mouth, they just use it to pile stuff onto the spoon. So whoever introduced the fork to this region of the world didn't really do a very good job. Anyway, it tastes delicious no mater how you eat it.
Eventually it was time to head to Bangkok. I fought through the smog to visit some of the palaces and temples, got my teeth cleaned (no cavities!) and a genuine Thai massage (more of a test of my flexibility) but the highlight would have to be one of the day trips that I took. The day started early and while waiting for the tour to get organized I heard some cheering from a nearby bar. I would assume that the bar was full of Americans because they were cheering about a touchdown that the Steelers had just scored in the Superbowl. It was strange to see them drinking coffee instead of beer while watching the game but then again it was eight in the morning. Kind of made me miss home for a minute but then I realized where I was going that day and got over it.
Once everyone got sorted and we were on our way we had to stop at a few boring (OK, OK, important) memorials before we got to the elephant ride. It brought back memories of riding elephants at the circus but somehow the elephants seemed a lot smaller than in my memories. Next was a waterfall with plenty of interesting tropical birds flying around. And then finally we made it to the Tiger Temple. The Tiger Temple is run by monks who first adopted an orphaned tiger and now have lots of tigers that tourists are allowed to pet and pose for pictures with. It was a little disappointing that there was such a huge number of tourists and you were moved around so quickly. Instead of actually getting to experience being up close with a tiger it felt a lot more like a photo opportunity. At least in Africa there was a sense of danger when I was in the lion cage since the guards had some very large guns strapped to their backs and there was nobody waiting in line.
One more stop at another Thai beach on the way south to witness some fire twirling, fire jump rope and participate in fire limbo (did I mention that they're not big on lawsuits in this part of the world). Finally, after deciding that the Thais were just not very generous with visas these days it was time to go to my next destination: Malaysia.
I continued south where the weather got hotter and the culture got conservative. Malaysia is predominately Muslim but thanks to lots of Chinese immigrants there are still plenty of places to buy a beer.
I started out in Penang and loved the combination of Maylay, Chinese, Indian and British cultures living together. I especially enjoyed eating all the different types of food they brought with them. It was also fun to wander around (while tying not to get too sweaty) looking at the great colonial architecture.
Next I was on my way to a place where I could cool off and strawberries are grown year-round! The Cameron Highlands is where all sorts of fruits and vegetables are grown and tourists come to look at them. There are also some really incredible hiking trails. My favorite one went through the "Mossy Forest". I visited my very first apiary (where bees are raised), a tea plantation and a couple butterfly farms but my favorite place was definitely the strawberry farm. I made friends with a wonderful guy from Bangladesh who was running the place. He insisted on feeding me all the free strawberries and whipped cream I could eat. I think he liked me.
Onward to my next stop called Pulau Perhentian Kecil, or in other words, paradise. The island had just opened up after the monsoon season so things hadn't gotten crowded yet. The sand was white the water was clear and the nightly fish barbecues were delicious. It's one of those places where you literally lose track of time. The snorkeling trip was even better than in Thailand. This time I not only go to see Nemo fish but sea turtles, sharks and sting rays. The sea turtles also came on the beach at night to lay their eggs.
I tagged along with some of the people I met on the beach to one of the most Muslim cities in Malaysia: Kota Bharu. The museums were pretty interesting but one night we were wandering around and found what looked to be a night market taking place. Upon further investigation we saw the usual animal parts, clothes and food for sale. After sitting down on the nearby lawn to drink the super sweet colorful drinks we had bought we realized that we might be a little out of place. People were gathering around and a curious woman came over to talk to us. Turns out we were at a very conservative Muslim right-wing political rally. Hmm...there goes any chance of getting security clearance anytime in the near future. We stayed for a few minutes not understanding what the guy at the microphone was saying but observing everything around us. Eventually we felt uncomfortable enough to head out of there.
Taman Negara was where I decided to go next. Time for some more jungle trekking! This was real rainforest. I did a two-day hike through the rainforest where I donated some blood to the local leech population. I was hoping to see some elephants or tigers but instead saw deer, squirrels, woodpeckers and spiders. Pretty much the same stuff I see in my backyard at home. Oh well, I guess it is a little different when they're rainforest squirrels. Ok it wasn't all disappointing. I really enjoyed the challenge of a long hike and felt stronger and happier having accomplished it. The other highlights of Taman Negara were getting to go up on the canopy walkways and seeing the frightening and smelly bat caves.
I was a little bit apprehensive when I arrived in Singapore. I was afraid of doing something like breaking a law I didn't know about. And it was a bit of a culture shock being in a big city after so much time in the forest. The westerners who live there will tell you Singapore is like living in the movie "The Truman Show". They say it feels like a movie set because something that's broken will be fixed by the time you see it the next day. I witnessed this myself. I saw some graffiti on a wall that I hadn't noticed the day before but it was gone the next day when I walked past again. It makes you second-guess yourself whether it was there at all. The city is incredibly efficient and clean just like I had heard it would be. The other thing about Singapore is that they supposedly speak English. However, I can't understand them and they have a hard time understanding me. They speak their own version of English called Singlish and have a strange habit of adding "la" onto the end of their sentences.
By this time I had been in Asia for almost seven months. I had gotten pretty good at eating and drinking my dinner out of a plastic bag but it was time to embark on my next adventure: Australia.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Tuk-tuk? Motobike? Massaaaaaaaage?
Apparently the travel gods were not so happy about my arrival in Vietnam since it started raining nonstop for about ten days after I crossed the border. It wasn't even the wet season. I was back in a land of chopsticks and pagodas as I saw the familiar Chinese influence everywhere.
I soon found out that crossing the street in Vietnam is much different than anything else I have encountered in the world. Instead of a long line of cars the street is filled with thundering motorbikes. If you're not easily intimidated it's possible to step off the curb and have the traffic flow around you like water. It is very important to walk at a regular and predictable pace because any hesitation could cause confusion for the motorbike drivers and possibly an accident. The rain doesn't seem to be a problem either. The locals just throw on a colorful plastic poncho and try to avoid any puddles. And when the weather's nice everyone wears the ever-so-fashionable surgical masks.
It's amazing what they can carry on those motorbikes. They can load them up with huge bags of rice or carry dinner home without spilling. I've seen caskets and full-length mirrors on the back that don't even get a second glance from the locals. But hands-down the strangest thing I witnessed was when I saw someone get the shopkeeper to load up a decent sized refrigerator onto the back of his motorbike, grab onto it with his arm and take off without even tying the thing down. The shopkeeper saw my astonished expression when he turned around and just kind of let out a little chuckle and a shrug.
I have to admit I was expecting hostility from the locals due to the "American War" of my parent's generation. But even outside the tourist areas I was surprised to find friendly, curious locals and strangers that waved hello as I walked the street. There are reminders and memorials of the war scattered around the country. I visited a few like the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh and the site of the My Lai Massacre. I feel that as an American it was good to get the other side's perspective of what took place. I've seen Vietnamese landscapes in the movies but instead of bombs and helicopters it was reassuring to know I could visit this beautiful country and enjoy all the things it has to offer.
Actually one of the the very plentiful things that Vietnam offers to the world is bootlegged stuff. The Vietnamese have no issue with copyright infringement. It's fun and interesting to spot new and different ways to rip off brands. The "Gucci" store definitely does not sell anything by Gucci. The bottled water I bought looked remarkably similar to Pepsi's brand minus a letter or two. Of course everyone has heard of the copied DVDs, music and clothes brands but Vietnam was the first place I saw people walking around selling stacks of photocopied bestsellers. Every page has been copied and bound with a cover to resemble an authentic book. Clever.
The first city I visited was Hue. Tension was in the air because Vietnam was playing Thailand in the final match of a big tournament. I got my face painted with the Vietnam flag and got many cheers and even an offer for a free tuk-tuk ride because of my show of support. Vietnam ended up winning in the final second of the game that night. The enthusiasm was overwhelming. There was a lot of celebration and flag-waving in the streets. It's good to be on the winning side.
I stopped in Hoi'an next which is famous for tailor shops. It was very exciting to think about getting clothes and shoes tailor made but I ended up being disappointed in the quality. Oh well at least I got to celebrate New Years there and ended up having a great time.
I visited a few more villages and then made it to hectic Ho Chi Minh city before deciding it was time to move on to my next destination: Cambodia.
Upon arrival in Cambodia I couldn't figure out why all the cash machines only dispense US dollars. I went around looking for something that would give me the local currency out of the ATM. Eventually I asked someone and was able to figure out that Cambodia uses US dollars for their currency and the local "Reil" is used for any change under a dollar. Hmm... well it was nice to use the familiar greenbacks for a while after all the strange currencies I had been using in the past year.
I was in Phnom Penh. Besides witnessing for the first time people riding on top of the bus I got to see things like the King's Palace, a gigantic stupa in the middle of the city and walk along the river. But sadly one of the reasons so many tourists visit the capital is to learn about the country's tragic past.
One of the first books I read when I set off on my journey was George Orwell's novel, Nineteen Eighty-Four. It was written in 1949 but little did he know that the fictional world he imagined would manifest itself just 30 years later when the Khmer Rouge came to power in Cambodia.
In an effort to create a perfect society where everyone was "equal," the Khmer Rouge rounded up everyone in Phnom Penh and marched the ones who could make it to the countryside to work in the fields. Many wealthy or educated people were immediately killed. It was dangerous to even wear eyeglasses as it was seen as a sign of intelligence. Money was abolished, temples, libraries and anything western was destroyed, families were split up, talking to one another in conversation was prohibited, black was the only color permitted to be worn. Marriages were arranged by the Khmer Rouge for the sole purpose of procreation. Any violation of the rules meant you risked being sent away. Most likely to a prison where you were tortured until you confessed to doing something that was punishable by death.
It's not known how many people died during the regime but estimates range from one to three million. Most died of executions, overwork, starvation and disease. Much of the rice being produced on the farms ended up being sent to China in order to buy more weapons.
It's astonishing that something on this scale could have taken place so recently. It really doesn't get the attention it deserves in western society. Very few of the leaders were ever punished.
I visited one of the prisons where people were sent to be tortured. In what was once a school before it became a prison, the S-21 prison is a haunting and somber place to visit. The most moving part is the mug shots on display of all the prisoners that passed through. Each expression is different. Some look defiant while others look shocked and scared out of their mind.
The other place that you can visit is the "Killing Fields" where the people who were tortured and killed are buried in shallow mass graves. It is not for the feint of heart.
Feeling lucky to be alive I headed for my next destination. Sihanoukville is a typical Cambodian city but with a lot of great beaches. I didn't realize how low-key everything was until later when I had the beaches of Thailand to compare it to. It was great to chill out with some fellow travelers, eat fruit and drink coconuts. It was my first taste of the famed tropical paradises in Southeast Asia.
I made my way to Siem Reap where I fought off the fiercely competitive tuk-tuk drivers and see one of the highlights of Southeast Asia: Ankor Wat. But the night before I stayed up late to witness a significant moment back home in the States: the inauguration of President Obama. The guy running the bar I was in gave out free shots and we toasted to the new president. I even received a few congratulations myself. Things were looking up for the way Americans were starting to be perceived.
Ankor Wat is is a really big temple out in the middle of the jungle and it's surrounded by lots of other similar temples of various ages and states of repair. I spent a day seeing a lot of them and climbing to the top of most of them. The temples really were incredible. My favorites were where some of trees had grown in or around the buildings as if they were reclaiming the space where the were built.
As a result of all the climbing and exploring my muscles got very sore. It was time to get back to relaxing on the beach! I was off to join the sunburned Scandinavians in Thailand.
I soon found out that crossing the street in Vietnam is much different than anything else I have encountered in the world. Instead of a long line of cars the street is filled with thundering motorbikes. If you're not easily intimidated it's possible to step off the curb and have the traffic flow around you like water. It is very important to walk at a regular and predictable pace because any hesitation could cause confusion for the motorbike drivers and possibly an accident. The rain doesn't seem to be a problem either. The locals just throw on a colorful plastic poncho and try to avoid any puddles. And when the weather's nice everyone wears the ever-so-fashionable surgical masks.
It's amazing what they can carry on those motorbikes. They can load them up with huge bags of rice or carry dinner home without spilling. I've seen caskets and full-length mirrors on the back that don't even get a second glance from the locals. But hands-down the strangest thing I witnessed was when I saw someone get the shopkeeper to load up a decent sized refrigerator onto the back of his motorbike, grab onto it with his arm and take off without even tying the thing down. The shopkeeper saw my astonished expression when he turned around and just kind of let out a little chuckle and a shrug.
I have to admit I was expecting hostility from the locals due to the "American War" of my parent's generation. But even outside the tourist areas I was surprised to find friendly, curious locals and strangers that waved hello as I walked the street. There are reminders and memorials of the war scattered around the country. I visited a few like the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh and the site of the My Lai Massacre. I feel that as an American it was good to get the other side's perspective of what took place. I've seen Vietnamese landscapes in the movies but instead of bombs and helicopters it was reassuring to know I could visit this beautiful country and enjoy all the things it has to offer.
Actually one of the the very plentiful things that Vietnam offers to the world is bootlegged stuff. The Vietnamese have no issue with copyright infringement. It's fun and interesting to spot new and different ways to rip off brands. The "Gucci" store definitely does not sell anything by Gucci. The bottled water I bought looked remarkably similar to Pepsi's brand minus a letter or two. Of course everyone has heard of the copied DVDs, music and clothes brands but Vietnam was the first place I saw people walking around selling stacks of photocopied bestsellers. Every page has been copied and bound with a cover to resemble an authentic book. Clever.
The first city I visited was Hue. Tension was in the air because Vietnam was playing Thailand in the final match of a big tournament. I got my face painted with the Vietnam flag and got many cheers and even an offer for a free tuk-tuk ride because of my show of support. Vietnam ended up winning in the final second of the game that night. The enthusiasm was overwhelming. There was a lot of celebration and flag-waving in the streets. It's good to be on the winning side.
I stopped in Hoi'an next which is famous for tailor shops. It was very exciting to think about getting clothes and shoes tailor made but I ended up being disappointed in the quality. Oh well at least I got to celebrate New Years there and ended up having a great time.
I visited a few more villages and then made it to hectic Ho Chi Minh city before deciding it was time to move on to my next destination: Cambodia.
Upon arrival in Cambodia I couldn't figure out why all the cash machines only dispense US dollars. I went around looking for something that would give me the local currency out of the ATM. Eventually I asked someone and was able to figure out that Cambodia uses US dollars for their currency and the local "Reil" is used for any change under a dollar. Hmm... well it was nice to use the familiar greenbacks for a while after all the strange currencies I had been using in the past year.
I was in Phnom Penh. Besides witnessing for the first time people riding on top of the bus I got to see things like the King's Palace, a gigantic stupa in the middle of the city and walk along the river. But sadly one of the reasons so many tourists visit the capital is to learn about the country's tragic past.
One of the first books I read when I set off on my journey was George Orwell's novel, Nineteen Eighty-Four. It was written in 1949 but little did he know that the fictional world he imagined would manifest itself just 30 years later when the Khmer Rouge came to power in Cambodia.
In an effort to create a perfect society where everyone was "equal," the Khmer Rouge rounded up everyone in Phnom Penh and marched the ones who could make it to the countryside to work in the fields. Many wealthy or educated people were immediately killed. It was dangerous to even wear eyeglasses as it was seen as a sign of intelligence. Money was abolished, temples, libraries and anything western was destroyed, families were split up, talking to one another in conversation was prohibited, black was the only color permitted to be worn. Marriages were arranged by the Khmer Rouge for the sole purpose of procreation. Any violation of the rules meant you risked being sent away. Most likely to a prison where you were tortured until you confessed to doing something that was punishable by death.
It's not known how many people died during the regime but estimates range from one to three million. Most died of executions, overwork, starvation and disease. Much of the rice being produced on the farms ended up being sent to China in order to buy more weapons.
It's astonishing that something on this scale could have taken place so recently. It really doesn't get the attention it deserves in western society. Very few of the leaders were ever punished.
I visited one of the prisons where people were sent to be tortured. In what was once a school before it became a prison, the S-21 prison is a haunting and somber place to visit. The most moving part is the mug shots on display of all the prisoners that passed through. Each expression is different. Some look defiant while others look shocked and scared out of their mind.
The other place that you can visit is the "Killing Fields" where the people who were tortured and killed are buried in shallow mass graves. It is not for the feint of heart.
Feeling lucky to be alive I headed for my next destination. Sihanoukville is a typical Cambodian city but with a lot of great beaches. I didn't realize how low-key everything was until later when I had the beaches of Thailand to compare it to. It was great to chill out with some fellow travelers, eat fruit and drink coconuts. It was my first taste of the famed tropical paradises in Southeast Asia.
I made my way to Siem Reap where I fought off the fiercely competitive tuk-tuk drivers and see one of the highlights of Southeast Asia: Ankor Wat. But the night before I stayed up late to witness a significant moment back home in the States: the inauguration of President Obama. The guy running the bar I was in gave out free shots and we toasted to the new president. I even received a few congratulations myself. Things were looking up for the way Americans were starting to be perceived.
Ankor Wat is is a really big temple out in the middle of the jungle and it's surrounded by lots of other similar temples of various ages and states of repair. I spent a day seeing a lot of them and climbing to the top of most of them. The temples really were incredible. My favorites were where some of trees had grown in or around the buildings as if they were reclaiming the space where the were built.
As a result of all the climbing and exploring my muscles got very sore. It was time to get back to relaxing on the beach! I was off to join the sunburned Scandinavians in Thailand.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)