That's right. I posess billions and billions of dollars. The inflation rate here in Zimbabwe is 100,000%. Funny how we get so upset when the inflation rate goes up a fraction of a percent back home. But more on that later because I will now update everyone on what I've been up to lately.
After Maputo I left for the tropical paradise of Tofo, Mozambique. I had my own grass hut on the beach for less than six dollars a night. Since it is the low season for tourism the place was pretty empty and my two fellow travelers and I practically had the beach to ourselves.
One of the highlights was when I got to go snorkeling with whale sharks. The guide rides the boat around and when she spots a shark fin in the water she tells everyone to jump in. It's pretty scary coming face to face with a shark and it takes a second to get over your initial reaction of fear. Whale sharks are just docile filter feeders and they won't hurt humans. At one point the whale shark went under the boat and I was the only one to follow it. It was a pretty cool experience being the only one swimming next to it for a few minutes and having the whale shark look me right in the eye.
Before I launch into my next Tofo adventure I think I should explain the minibus. The minibus is the main form of transportation between cites in most of Africa. They have different names depending on what country you're in but the concept is basically the same. Most are like 15-passenger vans or slightly larger and in general 75% of all surfaces are covered in rust. The drivers wait at the bus station until all seats are filled and then gets even more passengers to squeeze in before it will leave. Somehow I always manage to get the aisle seat (literally the seat that folds out into the aisle).
For the journey from Maputo to Tofo (by the way, I can never complain about the potholes back home ever again) we were driving along in our minibus when all of a sudden we started smelling smoke. The driver stopped the bus and removed a floor tile in the passenger area by the door to reaveal some flames. Nobody seemed too concerned and they just poured some water on it. A little bit of tweaking to some parts and a good Little-Miss-Sunshine-style group push-start and we were on our way.
In the time that we were sitting on the side of the road I got to meet Pedro. Pedro lives near the beach where we were headed. We hung out with him a couple times during our stay and one night he invited the three of us to his village. We had to walk along a path that included taking off your shoes to cross a swamp. He introduced us to two classes of school children, an old man who made me chug home-brewed coconut beer, and his wonderful family. We had a meal of coffee, bread, rice, and some small fish. He even climbed up one of the trees to grab us a delicious coconut. It was really interesting to see how the locals lived and we all felt very honored to be invited into his home.
While in Tofo I met two American guys that were headed in the same direction as me. We left together to attempt to cross Zimbabwe. Zimbabwe does not have very many tourists at the moment. In fact, we felt like the only tourists most of the time. Only just a few years ago Zimbabwe was a major tourist area. Great weather, beautiful scenery and incredible wildlife was what used to lure people in to the country. Now, people stay away because of politics and economy troubles. The official exchange rate is 1 USD to 30,000 Zim dollars. The actual rate is somewhere around 25 to 40 million Zim dollars to 1 USD. You can't even buy a Coke if you withdraw $100 USD from the ATM. You need stacks of money to pay for anything since their largest bill is 10 million dollars (less than 50 cents). It's very strange paying 40 million dollars for a beer. And it's gotten so out of control that their currency has an expiration date printed on it.
Everything is done on the black market here. The grocery store shelves here are empty. It's much more profitable to sell food to people on the side than sell it at the price the government says they can. People here have to literally "know a guy" that can get them some milk, bread, or petrol. The economy is really messed up but the elections took place yesterday. It's obviously a very rigged election so it will be interesting to see if there is any violence when the results come in.
Needless to say the people we met in Zimbabwe were very welcoming and eager to help the lone tourists in town. Besides the whole changing money on the black market headache, Zimbabwe is a pretty cool place. I went to a lion park in Harare where I got to go into an enclosure with two 8-month-old lion cubs to pet them. It was pretty cool. Other activities included seeing balancing rocks and climbing a mountain to see some ancient rock paintings.
I am currently in the town of Victoria Falls. I saw the falls yesterday and they were amazing! The area around here is beautiful and full of wildlife. There are warthogs and baboons running around everywhere. I even got to see three gigantic elephants on the drive to see "The Big Tree" (The tree Livingstone camped under).
I am headed to Zambia this afternoon. Hopefully many more adventures await.
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4 comments:
Man, I wish I could be there... Did you go swimming in the pool at the edge of the falls?
Anyway, glad to know that you are having a blast. And even tho you broke the "swimming with sharks rule", it was a good shark choice to do it with.
Jen, awesome post. I miss you. You should get an ICQ number so we can chat online sometime. (here: www.icq.com)
$1,000,000,000
sweet
I guess I'm behind a few days - great post!
How is the atmousphere in Southern Africa now that there's going to be a Zimbabwean election recount?
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